International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2014, 36, 93–101
doi: 10.1111/ics.12101
Immediate and extended effects of sodium lauryl sulphate exposure on stratum corneum natural moisturizing factor D. R. Hoffman*, L. M. Kroll*, A. Basehoar*, B. Reece†, C. T. Cunningham* and D. W. Koenig* *Kimberly-Clark Corporation, 2100 Winchester Road, Neenah, WI, 54956, †Reliance Clinical Testing Services, Inc., 3207 Esters Road, Irving, TX 75062-2879, U.S.A.
Received 29 May 2013, Accepted 15 October 2013
Keywords: acute barrier disruption, filaggrin, natural moisturizing factor, polymers/surfactants, S-100 proteins
Synopsis OBJECTIVES: Natural moisturizing factor (NMF) serves as the primary humectant of the stratum corneum (SC), principally comprised of hygroscopic amino acids and derivatives that absorb moisture. Barrier disruption has been shown to differentially affect the levels of specific NMF components, though the kinetics of NMF component restoration following disruption have not been examined. Here, we investigated the impact of barrier disruption caused by surfactant exposure on a subset of NMF components immediately following exposure and out to 10 days post-exposure. METHODS: Volunteers wore patches containing either 1% w/v sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS) or distilled water on their forearms for 24 h. Measurements of transepidermal water loss, erythema, SC water content and a subset of SC NMF and lipid components were obtained at both sites before treatment, the day of patch removal, and 1, 2, 3, 6, and 10 days following treatment. RESULTS: Most measured NMF components decreased in response to SLS exposure. Exceptions were increases in lactate, ornithine and urea, and no difference in proline levels. In the days following exposure, reduced levels of several NMF components continued at the SLS site; however, all measured NMF components demonstrated equivalence to the vehicle control within 10 days. Histidine pH 7, lactate, ornithine and urea were the first to achieve levels equivalent to the vehicle control site, normalizing within 1 day after patch removal. CONCLUSION: Results imply that NMF components derived from sweat and urea cycling are least impacted by SLS exposure whereas NMF components derived from degradation of filaggrin and/or other S-100 proteins are most impacted. This implies the restoration of the processes responsible for S-100 protein processing into free amino acids takes several days to return to normal. Further examination of the enzymes involved in S-100 protein processing following barrier disruption would provide insight into the pathway(s) for NMF restoration during SC recovery. sume Re OBJECTIFS: Le facteur naturel d’hydratation (NMF) sert en tant que humectant primaire du stratum corneum (SC), etant principalement Correspondence: Douglas R. Hoffman, Kimberly-Clark Corporation, 2100 Winchester Road, Neenah, WI 54956, U.S.A. Tel.: 920-7214143; fax: 920-225-4125; e-mail: [email protected] This study was presented at the 2011 meeting of the International Society for Biophysics and Imaging of the Skin (6 April–9 April 2011; Tampa, FL U.S.A.).
compose d’acides amines et des derives qui absorbent l’humidite hygroscopique. La perturbation de la barriere affecte differemment les niveaux de composants specifiques du NMF, mais la cinetique une perturbation de la restauration des composants du NMF suite a n’a pas encore ete examinee. Ici, nous avons etudie l’impact de la rupture de la barriere causee par l’exposition aux tensioactifs sur un sous-ensemble de composants NMF immediatement apres 10 jours post- exposition. l’exposition et a METHODES: Les volontaires portaient des patches contenant soit 1% p/v sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) ou de l’eau distillee sur leurs avant-bras pendant 24 h. Les mesures de la perte insensible en eau, d’erytheme, de la teneur en eau du SC, et d’un sous-ensemble du NMF/SC et des composants lipidiques ont ete obtenus sur les deux sites avant le traitement, le jour de l’enlevement du timbre, et 1, 2, 3, 6, et 10 jours apres le traitement. RESULTATS: La plupart des composants du NMF mesures ont l’exposition de SLS. Les exceptions ont ete diminue en reponse a l’augmentation de lactate, de l’ornithine, et de l’uree, ainsi que l’absence de difference dans les quantites de proline. Dans les jours qui suivent l’exposition, la reduction des niveaux de plusieurs composants de NMF s’est poursuivie sur le site SLS, mais tous les composants du NMF mesures ont retrouve l’equivalence avec le site contr^ ole du vehicule apres 10 jours. Histidine pH 7, le lactate, l’ornithine et l’uree ont ete les premiers a atteindre des niveaux equivalents au site de contr^ole du vehicule, avec une normalisation constatee un jour apres le retrait du timbre. CONCLUSION: Les resultats impliquent que les composants du NMF provenant des cycles de la sueur et de l’uree sont moins touches par l’exposition au SLS tandis que les composants du NMF issus de la degradation de la filaggrine et/ou dans d’autres proteines S- 100 sont les plus touches. Cela implique que la restauration des processus responsables du traitement des proteines la S-100 en acides amines libres prend plusieurs jours pour revenir a normale. Un examen plus approfondi des enzymes impliquees dans le traitement des proteines S-100 suivant rupture de la barriere pourrait donner un apercßu des cheminements de la restauration du NMF lors de la recuperation du SC. Introduction Damage to the stratum corneum (SC) can lead to multiple skin health impairments including increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL), redness and susceptibility to infection or irritation by external factors. The magnitude of these injuries is influenced
© 2013 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Societe Francßaise de Cosmetologie
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D. R. Hoffman et al.
Immediate/extended effects of SLS on NMF
substantially by an individual’s susceptibility. Those most susceptible to damage have underlying deficiencies in the ability to develop a normal, healthy SC barrier, which occurs in conditions such as psoriasis, eczema and atopic dermatitis [1–4]. Other factors influencing the magnitude of injury include chronic vs. acute exposure, the anatomical location where the exposure occurs, and mechanism of SC damage. Occlusion or excessive water exposure disrupts the SC water balance, increasing its permeability and susceptibility to irritation [5]. Surfactant exposure is a common cause of chemical SC damage. Consumer exposure to surfactants commonly results from using personal hygiene products such as soaps, cleansers and acne treatments. Routine chemical exposures in the workplace are also common, with skin damage occurring in occupations that require frequent hand washing such as healthcare, cosmetology and food service. Surfactants impact barrier function through several mechanisms, including damage to SC proteinaceous materials and lipids [6]. The net charge and micelle size affect the probability of surfactant damage, with the greatest damage caused by anionic surfactants [e.g. sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS) and sodium dodecyl sulphate] that form small (
doi: 10.1111/ics.12101
Immediate and extended effects of sodium lauryl sulphate exposure on stratum corneum natural moisturizing factor D. R. Hoffman*, L. M. Kroll*, A. Basehoar*, B. Reece†, C. T. Cunningham* and D. W. Koenig* *Kimberly-Clark Corporation, 2100 Winchester Road, Neenah, WI, 54956, †Reliance Clinical Testing Services, Inc., 3207 Esters Road, Irving, TX 75062-2879, U.S.A.
Received 29 May 2013, Accepted 15 October 2013
Keywords: acute barrier disruption, filaggrin, natural moisturizing factor, polymers/surfactants, S-100 proteins
Synopsis OBJECTIVES: Natural moisturizing factor (NMF) serves as the primary humectant of the stratum corneum (SC), principally comprised of hygroscopic amino acids and derivatives that absorb moisture. Barrier disruption has been shown to differentially affect the levels of specific NMF components, though the kinetics of NMF component restoration following disruption have not been examined. Here, we investigated the impact of barrier disruption caused by surfactant exposure on a subset of NMF components immediately following exposure and out to 10 days post-exposure. METHODS: Volunteers wore patches containing either 1% w/v sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS) or distilled water on their forearms for 24 h. Measurements of transepidermal water loss, erythema, SC water content and a subset of SC NMF and lipid components were obtained at both sites before treatment, the day of patch removal, and 1, 2, 3, 6, and 10 days following treatment. RESULTS: Most measured NMF components decreased in response to SLS exposure. Exceptions were increases in lactate, ornithine and urea, and no difference in proline levels. In the days following exposure, reduced levels of several NMF components continued at the SLS site; however, all measured NMF components demonstrated equivalence to the vehicle control within 10 days. Histidine pH 7, lactate, ornithine and urea were the first to achieve levels equivalent to the vehicle control site, normalizing within 1 day after patch removal. CONCLUSION: Results imply that NMF components derived from sweat and urea cycling are least impacted by SLS exposure whereas NMF components derived from degradation of filaggrin and/or other S-100 proteins are most impacted. This implies the restoration of the processes responsible for S-100 protein processing into free amino acids takes several days to return to normal. Further examination of the enzymes involved in S-100 protein processing following barrier disruption would provide insight into the pathway(s) for NMF restoration during SC recovery. sume Re OBJECTIFS: Le facteur naturel d’hydratation (NMF) sert en tant que humectant primaire du stratum corneum (SC), etant principalement Correspondence: Douglas R. Hoffman, Kimberly-Clark Corporation, 2100 Winchester Road, Neenah, WI 54956, U.S.A. Tel.: 920-7214143; fax: 920-225-4125; e-mail: [email protected] This study was presented at the 2011 meeting of the International Society for Biophysics and Imaging of the Skin (6 April–9 April 2011; Tampa, FL U.S.A.).
compose d’acides amines et des derives qui absorbent l’humidite hygroscopique. La perturbation de la barriere affecte differemment les niveaux de composants specifiques du NMF, mais la cinetique une perturbation de la restauration des composants du NMF suite a n’a pas encore ete examinee. Ici, nous avons etudie l’impact de la rupture de la barriere causee par l’exposition aux tensioactifs sur un sous-ensemble de composants NMF immediatement apres 10 jours post- exposition. l’exposition et a METHODES: Les volontaires portaient des patches contenant soit 1% p/v sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) ou de l’eau distillee sur leurs avant-bras pendant 24 h. Les mesures de la perte insensible en eau, d’erytheme, de la teneur en eau du SC, et d’un sous-ensemble du NMF/SC et des composants lipidiques ont ete obtenus sur les deux sites avant le traitement, le jour de l’enlevement du timbre, et 1, 2, 3, 6, et 10 jours apres le traitement. RESULTATS: La plupart des composants du NMF mesures ont l’exposition de SLS. Les exceptions ont ete diminue en reponse a l’augmentation de lactate, de l’ornithine, et de l’uree, ainsi que l’absence de difference dans les quantites de proline. Dans les jours qui suivent l’exposition, la reduction des niveaux de plusieurs composants de NMF s’est poursuivie sur le site SLS, mais tous les composants du NMF mesures ont retrouve l’equivalence avec le site contr^ ole du vehicule apres 10 jours. Histidine pH 7, le lactate, l’ornithine et l’uree ont ete les premiers a atteindre des niveaux equivalents au site de contr^ole du vehicule, avec une normalisation constatee un jour apres le retrait du timbre. CONCLUSION: Les resultats impliquent que les composants du NMF provenant des cycles de la sueur et de l’uree sont moins touches par l’exposition au SLS tandis que les composants du NMF issus de la degradation de la filaggrine et/ou dans d’autres proteines S- 100 sont les plus touches. Cela implique que la restauration des processus responsables du traitement des proteines la S-100 en acides amines libres prend plusieurs jours pour revenir a normale. Un examen plus approfondi des enzymes impliquees dans le traitement des proteines S-100 suivant rupture de la barriere pourrait donner un apercßu des cheminements de la restauration du NMF lors de la recuperation du SC. Introduction Damage to the stratum corneum (SC) can lead to multiple skin health impairments including increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL), redness and susceptibility to infection or irritation by external factors. The magnitude of these injuries is influenced
© 2013 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Societe Francßaise de Cosmetologie
93
D. R. Hoffman et al.
Immediate/extended effects of SLS on NMF
substantially by an individual’s susceptibility. Those most susceptible to damage have underlying deficiencies in the ability to develop a normal, healthy SC barrier, which occurs in conditions such as psoriasis, eczema and atopic dermatitis [1–4]. Other factors influencing the magnitude of injury include chronic vs. acute exposure, the anatomical location where the exposure occurs, and mechanism of SC damage. Occlusion or excessive water exposure disrupts the SC water balance, increasing its permeability and susceptibility to irritation [5]. Surfactant exposure is a common cause of chemical SC damage. Consumer exposure to surfactants commonly results from using personal hygiene products such as soaps, cleansers and acne treatments. Routine chemical exposures in the workplace are also common, with skin damage occurring in occupations that require frequent hand washing such as healthcare, cosmetology and food service. Surfactants impact barrier function through several mechanisms, including damage to SC proteinaceous materials and lipids [6]. The net charge and micelle size affect the probability of surfactant damage, with the greatest damage caused by anionic surfactants [e.g. sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS) and sodium dodecyl sulphate] that form small (
